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Wood
Should I expect colour variations in my floor?
Yes - wood is a product fashioned by nature; therefore you will see variations from board to board. Individual companies tend to categorise Wood (Prime, Rustic etc), therefore indicating a general grain definition. For example, one would expect more knots in a 'Rustic' wood, and next to none in a 'Prime' category. No two boards are ever the same. Remember that each sample board is totally unique and must be regarded as a general guide rather than an exact match for either colour, shade or grain characteristics.
 
Does Wood dent and scratch?
Yes - wood contains a cell structure, therefore if enough pressure is applied it will collapse and a dent will appear. All wood will scratch - touch up kits are available depending on the wayer layer applied (i.e. polyurethane, wax, oil). We recommend the use of protective felt pads underneath furniture and castor cups to disperse pressure to avoid denting that might be a result of extremely heavy furniture. The floor must also be protected against exterior dirt and moisture by the use of barrier mats and maintained according to the manufacturer's guidelines.
 
I moved my area rug and my wood is lighter where the rug was?
Wood darkens with age - this natural ageing process is called Patina. Bright sunlight can accelerate this condition. Therefore we recommend that you move area rugs from time to time to avoid such obvious shading. Normal exposure to sunlight can also bring about changes in shading on carpets, therefore rugs and/or furniture should be moved occasionally to reduce this. Where possible, curtains should be drawn to minimise the damaging effects of sunlight.
 
Can I have wood in my bathroom?
It is not recommended due to the high moisture content of such rooms, providing unfavourable conditions.
 
What Finish?
Deciding on a finish to your wood flooring is entirely personal. Polyurethane finishes provide a sheen, oil and wax finishes provide a matt finish. There are no overwhelming benefits to any of the finishes.
 
Where can I have solid or engineered flooring?
As a general rule of thumb, solid wood floors can only be installed above the soil line. Engineered can be installed above or below the soil line.
 
Can I mop my wood floor?
No - careful hovering is fine, and dry-mopping is recommended.
 
What are the best atmospheric conditions for Wood?
The best living conditions for wood flooring is 18-22 degrees Celsius and relative humidity of 55% -65%. This is deemed healthy for both the occupants and the wood flooring and is the sole responsibility of occupants after the floor has been laid. If these guidelines are not followed, excessive movement may occur. Once fitted, wood will continue to expand and contract and in some instances small gaps may occur - this is not a fault, but a condition of the product.
 
Do I have to use the cleaning and maintenance products supplied by the hardfloor manufacturers?
Yes - these are available in the showroom. To qualify for product guarantees it is essential that you use these systems.
 
CARPET
My carpet is shading in areas - is this normal?
Shading and pile reversal is a natural result of carpet wear and can be particularly noticeable on plain coloured cut-pile carpets. It might appear as though the carpet colour has changed but this is simply the effect of uneven pressure on the pile surface caused by treading. This characteristic is not due to any manufacturing fault.
 
Can I match an existing carpet?
Carpets are manufactured and dyed in batches and as such one batch might be subtly different from another - this makes trying to colour match more of an art and less of a science and cannot be guaranteed.
 
I am concerned about buying a carpet due to the claims that it has an impact on asthma, is this proven?
No scientific studies have ever proved that the total removal of carpet on its own has ever clinically benefited asthma patients. Asthma is complex and influenced by many diverse factors and although airborn dust mite allergen can trigger attacks, carpet acts as a sink trapping theseparticles, reducing the possibility of inhalation. Dust mites thrive only in temperatures of 25 degrees Celsius, with a relative humidity of 70%, conditions normally found in bedding not carpets.
 
MARMOLEUM
Why does the colour at home differ from that in the shop?
As all Marmoleum completes its maturing process, a temporary and variable natural phenomenon occurs which may give the product a yellow tint. Exposure to either natural or artificial light will allow the tint to disappear and the true colour to develop.
 
How do I look after my new Marmoleum floor?
Marmoleum has a strong protective finish that makes cleaning very simple - on a daily basis you can hoover the floor, however, Marmoleum have developed their own cleaner and polish to be applied periodically to maintain the floor.
 
AMTICO

Can Amtico be installed on radiant (under floor heating) floors?

Yes , providing the surface temperature does not exceed 27C (80F). Remember to switch off the heating for 48 hours before and after the installation.
 
Is Amtico suitable for use on walls or ceilings?
No , Amtico is intended for use only as a floorcovering.
 
SUBFLOORS

How long does concrete take to dry?

Concrete floors should be properly cured and adequately dry before installation can be started. The time for a new base to dry out is estimated at one day per 1mm thickness of concrete up to 50mm. Greater thicknesses require considerably longer to dry out. Remember to check the moisture content using an appropriate method.
 
What subfloor preparation do I use for concrete floors?
Old and new concrete floors must be smooth, level, stable, free from contamination and dry before laying Amtico tiles.
We recommend the use of appropriate levelling and smoothing products to produce a suitably levelled surface. If dampness is suspected or new concrete is still damp, a surface DPM (damp proof membrane) must be applied, primed and levelled before laying the Amtico tiles.
 
How do I prepare a suspended wood subfloor?
Tongue and grooved or straight-boarded floors must be overlaid with 6mm exterior grade or APA plywood. Prior to overlaying, any loose boards must be nailed down. If they are worn or "dished" they must be pre-levelled where required with a suitable levelling compound. The plywood should be fixed at 100mm centres around the edge of the board and 150mm centres across the rest of the board area with ring screws, shank nails or barbed flooring staples. The joints of the plywood and any other depressions should then be smoothed with an appropriate smoothing compound. Latex based smoothing compounds must not be used for this purpose. If a levelling compound is required to produce an acceptable base, this must be carried out prior to the attachment of the plywood to the sub-floor. The plywood should be fixed, small depressions and joints should then be smoothed with an appropriate smoothing compound.